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lence, that brings home to ▓him his lowly sta


tus. My z●igzag tramp ended late in the afternoon, and●, after a deal of wandering in and out am▓ong the c

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in. ● By no means regretting the whim that had c●arried me away to this land of yesterday, I set ▓back along the See towards Am

anals of the metropolis, I took ●a garret lodging overhanging a slugg▓ish waterway.The proverbial cleanlines


ste●rdam.The typical Hollander is nowh●ere seen to better advantage than in t▓his district.The population plies two voca▓tions.A

s of▓ Holland is no mere figure of speech.Few cit▓ies of the same size have as little of▓ the slum district w

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long the shores and on the● adjoining islands the stolid, picturesque fi●sherman is predominant.In the grea●t, flat meadows the c

ithin their confines as Am●sterdam.The Dutch laborer is, in many w●ays, far better off than those of the s●

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are of his cattle ▓occupies the no less stolid, if les●s quaint, peasant. There are wheat shocks eve▓n in Holland.As night was

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falling ●over the vast plain I withd


rew to a roadside fie▓ld and


retired.A Dutchman spied me ou


▓t in my resting-place


at some si▓lent hour, but spe


d away across the country lik●e a firm


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believer in ghosts whe▓n I offered to share my bed.I awoke at day●break to find myself within sight o●f the much maligned island of M▓arken, with an unobstructed view● of the quaint old church of Monnickendam, a onc●e populous city that has shrunk to● a baggy-t

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rousered hamlet of fisherfolk▓.Beyond the town there rattle▓d by occasionally a milk or baker’s cart, dr●awn, now by one dog, now by ▓a team of two or three, harnesse▓d together with


utter disregard to size, b●reed, or disposition.Sometimes, ind●eed, a canine and a human team-ma●te tugged together at the trace


s●. There ran a rumor in my favorite Koffie▓ Huis soon after my arrival at ▓Amsterdam in the afternoon, that a c▓argo-boat wh

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ich carried passengers for a s●ong was to leave at four for Arnheim on the Rhi▓ne.I thrust a lunch into a pocket and▓ hurried dow

  • ame class across the channel
  • .In the city ther▓e is always
  • a Koffie Huis close at hand, w●h
  • ere eggs, milk, cheeses, and
  • dai●ry products in general a
  • re served at small cost▓ and in c
  • leanly surroundings.C▓ompare


e was a c▓anal-boat some twenty-five feet long ●and eight wide, as black as a coal-barge, ▓though by no means as clean; her unc●overed deck piled high



with boxes, barrels,▓ and crates ranging in co


ntents f▓rom be

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er mugs to protesting live stock.I▓ scrambled over the cargo and found a seat on ▓a barrel of oil.It was already after four, but▓ there was really no r